Stripped Allen Screw in a Monitor Arm Joint: How to Get It Out

Quick Answer: Take the monitor off first, then press a fresh, correctly sized hex bit fully into the screw; if it still slips, move to a grip method.

• The socket is rounded but not destroyed: Get more grip on it. Use Fix A to grip the stripped socket
• The socket is too damaged to grip: Use an extractor, with care. Use Fix B to remove it with an extractor
• The screw is out and you need a replacement: Match it exactly. Use Fix C to fit the right screw
• Not sure which screw this is, or whether it is safe to remove: Go to Step 1 to identify it

• Difficulty: Moderate for grip methods; advanced if an extractor is needed.
• Tools: A new hex key or hex bit set in both metric and inch sizes, a wide rubber band, and safety glasses. Fix B adds a screw extractor set and a drill.

Jump to:

• Step 1 - Identify the Screw and Make the Arm Safe
• Step 2 - Remove and Replace the Screw
• Step 3 - Check the Joint Works Again
• Common Mistakes
• FAQ

Why Hex Screws Strip

A hex key turns a screw by pressing on the six flat walls inside its socket. If the key is slightly too small, worn, or only partly inserted, it presses on the corners instead, and those corners round off.

A common cause is using an inch key in a metric screw, or the reverse. Some sizes are close enough to slip in, but not close enough to grip under force.

Once the walls are rounded, each extra attempt with the same key polishes them smoother. The way out is a better grip, not more force.

Problem state: The socket's walls are rounded, so the key spins without turning the screw.

Corrected state: The damaged screw is out, a matching new screw is in, and the joint adjusts and holds as before.

Critical Safety Warning: Some screws in a monitor arm hold parts under spring load. Freeing one with the monitor attached, or near the gas spring, can let an arm segment snap or the monitor drop.

Drilling and hammering also throw metal fragments, and a drill bit that slips can puncture the gas spring cylinder.

• Remove the monitor before working on any arm screw, with the arm in the removal position its instructions specify, and don't pull the empty arm down by hand.
• Do not try to extract the spring tension screw or any screw that holds the gas spring; those need the maker's part or service.
• Wear safety glasses for every removal method, and never drill, hammer, or cut near the gas spring cylinder.

Step 1 - Identify the Screw and Make the Arm Safe

Find the arm's model name on its label and check the parts diagram in its assembly guide. You need to know what this screw does before deciding whether to remove it.

• It is a joint friction screw, cover screw, or swivel bolt: You can remove it with the monitor off. Continue below.
• It is the spring tension screw, or it holds the gas spring: Stop. Request the replacement part or service from the arm's maker, using the model name and a photo of the damaged screw.
• It is a VESA screw into the monitor: The threads belong to the monitor, so work slowly, keep the monitor face-down on a soft surface, and use Fix A only.
• The key grips but the screw won't turn: The screw isn't stripped; it's stuck. Don't keep forcing it, or you'll strip it. If the joint is simply too stiff to move, that is a separate stiff-joint problem.

Then judge the damage. Shine a light into the socket and look at the walls.

• Corners rounded, flats still visible: Go to Fix A.
• Socket turned into a smooth round hole: Try Fix A's last method, then Fix B.

Step 2 - Remove and Replace the Screw

Fix A - Grip the Stripped Socket

Use when: The socket's flat walls are still partly visible.

Before you start: With the monitor off, lay the arm segment flat or support it so it can't swing while you push hard on the key, and wear safety glasses. See why the arm must be unloaded.

Work through these in order and stop as soon as the screw turns.

1. Clean the socket: Pick out debris and metal flakes so the key can seat all the way down.
2. Find the snuggest key: Try new keys in both metric and inch sizes. Use the largest one that fully enters, and turn using the short end of an L-key for more control.
3. Push hard, turn slowly: Press the key firmly into the screw while turning counterclockwise in one steady motion.
4. Add a rubber band: Lay a piece of wide rubber band over the socket and press the key through it. The rubber fills the rounded gaps.
5. Tap in a slightly larger bit: As a last grip method, gently tap a Torx bit just larger than the socket into it with a small hammer, then turn it. Support the part from behind, and skip this step near the gas spring.

Check: The screw turns and comes out. Go to Fix C to replace it. If none of these grip, use Fix B.

Fix B - Remove It With a Screw Extractor

Use when: Grip methods failed, the screw isn't on the gas spring, and you can reach it with the drill held straight.

Before you start: An extractor needs a pilot hole drilled into the screw, so position the part where a slipping bit can't reach the gas spring, and wear safety glasses. Read the drilling precautions.

You need: An extractor set with matching pilot bits. The extractor's packaging lists which size suits which screw.

1. Remove the part if you can: Take off the arm segment holding the screw, if that doesn't involve the spring, and secure it on a bench.
2. Drill the pilot hole: Drill straight into the center of the screw at low speed, only as deep as the extractor's instructions say.
3. Seat the extractor: Tap or press it into the hole as its instructions describe.
4. Turn counterclockwise slowly: The extractor bites harder as you turn. Use steady force, not jerks.
5. Clean up the shavings: Blow or wipe all metal fragments out of the joint before reassembly.

Check: The screw is out and the threads in the arm look undamaged. Go to Fix C. If the extractor slips or the arm's threads are damaged, stop: the part needs replacing, not repair.

Fix C - Fit a Matching Replacement Screw

Use when: The damaged screw is out.

Before you start: Keep the monitor off until the new screw is fully tightened and the joint tested by hand, so an unfinished joint never carries load. Review the loading precaution.

1. Get the exact screw: Order it from the arm's maker by part number, or take the old screw to a hardware store and match its thread size, length, and head type.
2. Don't substitute a near fit: A screw that is close but not identical can damage the threads or leave the joint loose.
3. Start it by hand: Turn the new screw in with your fingers for the first few turns to avoid cross-threading.
4. Use the matching key: Seat the correct key fully and tighten only as the guide directs.
5. Keep the right key with the arm: Tape it under the desk so the wrong one isn't used next time.

Check: The new screw tightens smoothly and the key doesn't slip. Go to Step 3 before remounting the monitor.

Step 3 - Check the Joint Works Again

Before remounting, move the empty joint by hand through its range. Then remount the monitor and adjust the joint once more.

PASS: The new screw sits flush and seated, the key turns it without slipping, the joint moves smoothly and holds its setting with the monitor on, and no metal shavings remain.

FAIL: The screw won't tighten, spins in place, sits crooked, or the joint wobbles or grinds.

NEXT ACTION:

• Screw spins without tightening: The arm's threads are stripped. Stop using that joint under load and replace the part.
• Screw sits crooked: Remove it and restart by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Joint grinds: Shavings may be inside. Clean the joint before using it again.
• Joint holds but the arm drifts or sinks: Re-set its friction or tension. If it moves in jerks, see Monitor Arm Jerks or Sticks When You Raise It.

Common Mistakes

Mistake: Trying again and again with the same key.

What happens: Each attempt rounds the socket further, until grip methods no longer work and only an extractor is left.

Instead: Stop at the first slip and switch to a better-fitting key or grip method.

Mistake: Working on the screw with the monitor still mounted.

What happens: The joint carries load while you push on it, and a sudden release can drop the monitor.

Instead: Remove the monitor first.

FAQ

What should I do if an Allen screw is stripped?

Stop turning it with the same key, because every slip rounds the socket further. Take the monitor off, clean the socket, and press the snuggest new key firmly in while turning slowly. If it still slips, work through the grip methods in Fix A before reaching for an extractor.

How do I get a stripped screw out of a monitor or monitor arm?

Start with grip methods, and move to an extractor only if the socket has worn into a smooth round hole (Fix B). If it is a VESA screw going into the monitor itself, the threads belong to the monitor, so lay it face-down on a soft surface and use grip methods only.

Can I just leave a stripped screw in place?

If the joint holds and you never need to adjust it, yes. But you can't tighten it later if it loosens, so replace it when convenient.

This guide covers stripped hex screws in monitor arm joints and covers. Screws that hold or adjust the gas spring are outside its scope and need the maker's part or service.

Written and edited by Lio Lim

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